I simply got a set of rotring isographs (.2mm and .3mm) for sketching on the run. The .3mm skips a great deal on faster strokes. Is that this normal? May be the .3 mm tube not able to provide ink quick enough? The .2 doesn’t skip despite fast lengthy strokes. I am storing the pens nib in a jar with water inside it, so there’s most likely no dry ink inside it. I additionally cleaned both with plain tap water because the instructions suggest.

Another question: May be the .1mm too fragile? The .2 is supporting well and appears sturdy. Am I Going To notice a noticeable difference between the .2 and .1 line width?

I am in India and Rotring most likely doesn’t have a guarantee (the pens are less costly though at approximately $7 each). Once inked, stores here don’t have coming back policy on these.

The 01 sakura pigma micron (.25mm) wasn’t skipping up until the ink began to operate in in regards to a week. Just can’t afford one every week. I am accustomed to dip nibs which rarely skip, but they are cumbersome to make use of while travelling.

Cleaning, cleaning cleaning may be the trouble with Rotring pens. You should utilize them daily to avoid drying out. Didn’t have much success with .1 myself.

I possibly could not discover the G4 anywhere. Would you mean the G-Tec-C4? That appears to become not generally available here 🙁

Maybe I ought to just invent a belt clip to carry India ink :confused: (and hope I do not trip while sketching 😮 )

I’ll find out if I’m able to discover the GTC4 in your area, worldwide shipping is very costly for me personally.

Used to do try creating a yatate once, didn’t work with the dip pens. A wide open ink bottle did work a week ago around the train though everybody offered me a wide “berth” (not really a pun!).

I question when the sakura microns could be refilled, either with rotring ink, or possibly with ink from pentel brush pen cartridges (I’ve additional).

Maybe adding some soap/detergent (watercolor dispersant) will fix the rotring skipping issue.

I personally use Rotrings constantly – bought brand new ones last year

They should be stored horizontally keep – capped – there is a rubber insert within the cap that seals them and stop ink from becoming dry. Cap up isn’t a good move.

A am presuming fundamental essentials newer versions as Rotrings have been in existence for any lengthy time.

I don’t know make use of them daily, that isn’t the situation for me personally – however i would agree you ought to get a lot of it flowing every occasionally. I use mine at least one time each week.

I personally use the .10 and .13 without any problems – The position they are being used at could participate it – they’re initially drafting pens that generally work more consistent upright. I recieve gap after i lean on them heavily, however i make use of this to great effect to obtain random strokes.

Thanks Take advantage of! I’ll look for a box to insert them in, rather of the jar. Yes, they are new, and also have the rubber within the cap. Becoming dry is not an issue to date, both start immediately, everytime. But skipping is a problem even if held vertical.

Was studying Van Gogh’s letters and located this “But possibly there’d become more pen sketches on the planet if somebody invented a great pen to be used outdoors, by having an inkstand to choose it.” http://www.webexhibits.org/vangogh/letter/11/195.htm

Yes, I am talking about the G-Tec-C-4, Cultpens.com within the uk ship worldwide & are a great company to cope with.
If you insist upon staining your pants ! some determined dip pen diehards carry a little bit of indian ink in a single of individuals plastic film roll containers, in it’s a bit of sponge (possibly glued towards the base) your particulars are often super saturated with ink but less that cannot be absorbed through the sponge.

Maybe you have attempted the Uniball Signo (gel pen) series?

I did previously love the .38 black pen within this series, but switched to Microns/fiber-tipped pens due to the uniformity of tone and guaranteed archival ink. I really had to sit in this style, as just before it, I’d only used ballpoint pens. I have some Uniballs left and can eventually rely on them up, waste not, want not.

So you are saying Pilot G2 has some pens as small .20mm, with wealthy blacks, and uniformity of tone?

Hi Batman, yes some Pilots are finer than .2 line width.

UNDERSTAND – the decimal figures on gel pens make reference to sequence ball diameter & NOT their line width. Further complicating the problem is 2 different manufacturers .38 ball provides a different line width !

Listed here are the Pilots using the Signo .38 that you should compare line width.

Both Pilots & the Signos are lightfast, the Signos are waterproof however the Pilots aren’t.
The Signos possess a steady line width it doesn’t matter how hard you press on, using the Pilots when the pressure of the touch is reduced to some “down stroke” & also with respect to the speed of motion ,you will get varied thicknesses from the pens, this is also true from the G2 models.
Very frequently the opportunity to taper a line can also add great existence & character to some drawing whereas one perfectly uniform thickness is dull & deadening towards the existence inside a drawing, this is exactly why many people still struggle up with dip pens regardless of the hassle.
The Thinnest line pilot is extremely delicate & is only going to work OK around the smoothest Bristol board, really to obtain the finest line from these gel pens Bristol board is better.

Both Pilots & the Signos are lightfast

Same with my Pilot G-TEC-C4 lighfast. I would love to understand beacuse i enjoy this pen, however i thought it’s not lighfast and purchased sakura pigma. Have you got any official information primary health care provider the G-TEC-C4. I’d really understand the answer.

Hi Indraneel, why don’t you make use of the dip pens cousin a fountain pen ?
There are several really affordable mixers work all right.

I’ve got a couple of fountain pens, but they’re not fine enough, and can’t fill with waterproof ink. I attempted making your way around both but unsuccessful using the fountain pen.

I figured I did not like wrinkles, till I discovered the Search 100. Requires a 10x loupe to determine the crosshatch!

Same with my Pilot G-TEC-C4 lighfast. I would love to understand beacuse i enjoy this pen, however i thought it’s not lighfast and purchased sakura pigma. Have you got any official information primary health care provider the G-TEC-C4. I’d really understand the answer.

Hi Tomo, In reality NO, I’ve no official site I can provide you with with this particular information on it.
I don’t trust official standards his or her criteria for defining lightfast is really a certain line size & weight ,that is then exposed to U.V. light exposure for any with time. This can be acceptable for a normal written line however in drawing I personally use very small & light marks in places ,there’s almost no ink on the top of paper, invalidating the lab outcomes of the ISO tests in my purposes.
Listed here are my tests & relate Simply to the black colour
(their brown demonstrated very unstable)

1.I Understand that Pilot uses carbon particles suspended inside a bio-polymer Gel.
2. I understand that carbon is lightfast.
3. I understand the gel system of delivery puts a significantly bigger amount of pigment than any fibre tip
4.On top of that of I understand that whenever I place a test sheet of numerous marks produced by different pens inside a blindingly sunny window for more than 1.five years which incorporated 2 summers the pilot gel inks demonstrated no indications of even starting to fade. Even control examples of some makes & sizes of so known as lightfast fibre tips demonstrated fading ,some coloured fountain pen inks were completely gone in 4 several weeks!
Fountain pen blacks were beaten up after 1 summer time some went vivid eco-friendly !Lighter marks produced by ballpoints which satisfy the I.S.O. standards disappeared totally in 9 several weeks!
I understand from light tests transported out by others around the internet that my exposure there was a time lengthy enough to judge the lightfastness of inks generally.

Try not to believe some other people word on the web & possibly even risk your professional artistic status onto it ! prove it for your own satisfaction by doing all of your own tests -then you will be sure. Be sure to put control marks in from Sakura Pigma too because everything on the planet can & will bleach out eventually.

Just test sheet, quite interesting.

The richness from the blacks according to my observation of the sheet, causes it to be appear such as the Signos and Pilots have to do with equal. However a ballpoint pen that may provide a .20mm line width, now this is a novelty, and I am shopping! So far, I did not think any ballpoint pen could provide a fine enough line in my purposes. Also, I’ve always felt that ballpoints offer better line control, whereas with fiber-tip pens, an unsteady hands could be ruinous. Or at best that is what I have observed, YMMV.

However one problem that developed the Signo gel pens is, well, since i have more often than not make use of a pencil pre-drawing, afterwards I must erase the graphite. To get this done I personally use a kneadable art eraser, essentially the very best for this function. IIRC, the Signo gel inks faded more noticeably compared to fiber-tip inks. unsure the Pilots could be different?

You do not appear to love a uniform line width–I’d guess then that you are no fan of technical pens (Rapidograph, etc.) or fiber-tips like Microns? I am inclined to should you prefer a foreseeable line, I am no calligrapher! :cat:

The Signos possess a steady line width it doesn’t matter how hard you press on, using the Pilots when the pressure of the touch is reduced to some “down stroke” & also with respect to the speed of motion ,you will get varied thicknesses from the pens, this is also true from the G2 models.
Very frequently the opportunity to taper a line can also add great existence & character to some drawing whereas one perfectly uniform thickness is dull & deadening towards the existence inside a drawing, this is exactly why many people still struggle up with dip pens regardless of the hassle.
The Thinnest line pilot is extremely delicate & is only going to work OK around the smoothest Bristol board, really to obtain the finest line from these gel pens Bristol board is better.

I too make use of a kneadable eraser & the pilot ink appears to stick to the paper perfectly.
Yet it’s a sluggish drying ink & I’ve observed far better results by departing it to dry for any full 24 hrs before touching it by having an eraser.
Departing it just a few hrs until it had been surface dry has brought to disaster for me personally before I learned my lesson !

The pilots certainly will have a foreseeable line width, actually you need to work really hard in internet marketing to obtain variation within the thickness, so don’t be concerned about this as being a negative.

As with every tools it’s a very personal decision in regards to what fits you, the negatives on a single pen outweighed through the positives in another, however, you never appear so that you can have all the feaures you would like in a single pen !

Ok, the watercolor dispersant wasn’t close at hands and so i dipped a toothpick in dish detergent and set it within the ink cartridge. The flow has improved. Also, there aren’t any skips basically press a little hard at greater than ninety degree position (pushing the end around the paper for fast strokes quite positively that can’t be a great factor for that tip). I’m able to accept that. but.

As with every tools it’s a very personal decision in regards to what fits you, the negatives on a single pen outweighed through the positives in another, however, you never appear so that you can have all the feaures you would like in a single pen !

👿 👿 👿 . the Gillott 659 crowquill is an ideal fit around the rotring . 😮 😮 😮 :clap: :clap: :clap: Really, check it out, I dare you! Only problem, steps to make a lot of it flow and achieve the nib? I suppose the thick round part soon after the steel tube includes a 3mm dia, which is equivalent to the gillott. Hope I do not damage the rotrings in most this excitement! Maybe plugging in certain cotton can help? I understand there’s ink inside somewhere.

edit: 😀 😀 The rotring isograph ink reservoir constitutes a perfect inkpot for that gillott 659 fitted on top! Significantly less possibility of splilling than the usual bottle. Maybe it’s possible to even store a gillott within the pen barrel for emergency (or routine) use, becasue it is mostly empty. Now whatever you individuals with non working technical pens, I envy you :envy: 🙁

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/20-November-2013/1267204-Ink_holder_from_memory.gif The above mentioned is really a sketch I have done from memory of the detail from the 18th.C. sketch of a few gents sketching outdoors. One of these had this ink container round his neck .So you can now acquire some ink in your shirt too !!

[quote=indraneel]. the Gillott 659 crowquill is an ideal fit around the rotring . Really, check it out, I dare you! Only problem, steps to make a lot of it flow and achieve the nib?

I believe bridging that small gap to help make the ink not just achieve the nib but to achieve it within the right quantity is easily the most technical a part of designing a practical pen additionally the requirement for your flexing crowquill to possess a different way to obtain ink supply based on quantity of pressure applied -it might be a bridge too much !

“Now whatever you individuals with non working technical pens, I envy you “

Don’t be concerned it may sound as if you too will soon possess a non working technical pen of your should you continue along your present experimental path !

More seriously have you ever seen the Ackerman pen in the U.S. ? it requires dip pen nibs & india ink BUT the organization established fact to be as hard to rely on as its’ pens, orders not sent or coming 9 several weeks late, charge cards over billed etc. Possess a search around fountain pen network .com to determine it for action & comments onto it.

I’ll have a spread the medal you’ve created for me in my efforts 😀

Also, I have made the decision to stay using the rotring and(as) crowquill for the time being, the Ackerman comments are all not so good news! Fortunately the rotring ink is comparatively cheap here (23ml

Hi Indraneel. I spent many frustrating hrs within the 1970s – at school and then employed in an architect’s drawing office – attempting to coax Rotring pens into action! They’d a routine of becoming dry overnight. I’d then run them within tap and then try to have them going again on scrap paper, before investing in one half-finished intend on enter board. Almost always, just after i thought all was well, a lot of it will come through inside a disastrous blob of the routine – and needed to be carefully scratched by helping cover their a blade!! Clearly, in many years, Rotring have still not were able to enhance the performance of those pens!

Now though, I readily Edding 1800 fine liner pen .1, waterproof ink, reliable, along with a pleasure to make use of. I believe I pay about Ј3.50 each on their behalf – though I believe they come cheaper online. I’m not sure how this compares with buying ink and pens individually – however for reliability, no mess and hassle-free, I believe the price is much more than justified! Best of luck!

Wanted to update everybody following a couple of several weeks of intermittent use, the Rotring isographs are going strong. I have them tightly capped, horizontally, and a few happen to be idle for approximately three days. None have clogged, and oddly the broader ones appear harder to begin when idle (nothing major, only a couple of strokes starts them up). The .1 starts immediately, the .2 a stroke or more, and also the .3 a couple of more strokes although around the .3 the road width appears to possess become thinner. I’ll rinse off. A lot of it that is completely waterproof, washes off readily with water and soap. I personally use a small amount of the rotring ink for brush and ink too, very mobile, with no anxiety about splilling, and unless of course totally dry, reconstitutes with water.

The Rotrings however they are less portable when i thought. The continual up lower jerks while walking or perhaps in public transit constitutes a nice pool in the nib, which drops out once the water tight cap is opened up. And So I inevitably needed to acquire some Sakura microns and Staedtler pigment liners for travel. Will fill them track of the Rotring ink when they are finished. May go, and here a lot of it bottle costs no more than 85 cents.

I threw in the towel around the crowquill-on-the-rotring idea after unintentionally spilling a lot of it on my small bag. So glad it had been no more than 1ml and never 20!

I simply got a set of rotring isographs (.2mm and .3mm) for sketching on the run. The .3mm skips a great deal on faster strokes. Is that this normal? May be the .3 mm tube not able to provide ink quick enough? The .2 doesn’t skip despite fast lengthy strokes.
Hi, I discovered your thread while looking for another thing – you may know the solution to all of your questions now 🙂 I’ve been using Rotrings for several years – I really like them, however they will have some limitations. They’re, in the end, *technical* pens, intended for architectural drawing. They aren’t designed like a freehand sketch pen, so you’ve to simply accept that if you use them. However, many artists, the cartoonist Robert Crumb for instance, rely on them professionally as freehand sketch pens, however i stress: Normally the bigger bores – I personally use a .7, Not really a .2 or .3.

Another question: May be the .1mm too fragile? The .2 is supporting well and appears sturdy. Am I Going To notice a noticeable difference between the .2 and .1 line width?
For sketch work, I believe so, but that is just me. They are meant for fine drafting focus on drafting papers, which aren’t the same as sketch papers. Drawing paper could be more prone to release fibres that could block a lot of it, for just one factor.

I am in India and Rotring most likely doesn’t have a guarantee (the pens are less costly though at approximately $7 each). Once inked, stores here don’t have coming back policy on these.
Around Australia, they are $70, not $7. Are you certain they are genuine? If that’s the case, they are simply a good deal. Incidentally, I carry my .7 along with a sketchbook beside me at (nearly) all occasions. I personally use it most days, rather than have trouble with ink pooling or dripping. However, I’ve known it to occur with a few pens, which i’ve stopped using for that reason, sadly. There is nothing perfect, I suppose. When they ever become blocked, and soaking in tepid to warm water along with a little detergent does not free them up, purchase a bottle of Rotring Cleaning Fluid, if you’re able to think it is. Soak the various components overnight, and they’ll come good, even should they have been left for a long time.

I think you’ll still enjoy your Rotrings, as you have seen, I’m a fan! One additional reason for their services: I made use of disposable Signo’s and Gel Impact pens etc for some time, then realized I had been consuming a great deal of plastic. I’d use 4 per month, as the Rotrings just required a refill. Just counts for that atmosphere 🙂

I’d like to employ a true technical pen, also.. I hear the benefit is that you simply always obtain a uniform line along with a true dark colored it doesn’t matter how much pressure you put onto it.

It may be too finicky for me personally, though. I hear you need to contain the pen in a certain position and also the pens skip and jam, and so forth.

I’d like to employ a true technical pen, also.. I hear the benefit is that you simply always obtain a uniform line along with a true dark colored it doesn’t matter how much pressure you put onto it.
Yes, its nice black, and in my opinion the number .6 – 1.2 will work for sketching. The road is uniform to some extent. One cannot draw TOO rapidly, because the tip are only able to deliver ink towards the paper in a certain rate. Past this rate and also the line will obviously split up. You are able to obviously employ this being an “effect” 🙂

It may be too finicky for me personally, though. I hear you need to contain the pen in a certain position and also the pens skip and jam, and so forth. Yes, it must be held fairly upright. I am accustomed to them, and love them greatly, so perhaps I am just a little forgiving, however i don’t locate them that finicky whatsoever. If they are not really used, they should be cleaned before storage, but when they are in regular use, they should not need much care. Incidentally, you do not need a lot of them – I simply play one – a .7 isograph. I have a little sketchbook beside me to complete individuals otherwise wasted occasions in waiting-rooms, bus-stops, etc 🙂
I actually do recommend utilizing a sketchbook with an above average number of rag, for the greatest from the line the pen delivers. Mine is Mi-Teintes®, In my opinion :thumbsup:

ps. I’m not now or ever an worker from the Rotring Corporation 😀

Interesting input!

I’d think you can still make use of a Rotring on smooth bristol board, though, right?

Jeffro, interesting comments! I believe the rotrings are genuine, they’ve individuals hologram stickers. For me personally, the .1 is skipping minimal, really, not skipping whatsoever.

I have always wondered, what exactly are illustration boards? And, how different will the smooth side of stiff cartridge paper be? I doubt I’m able to find ilustration boards in India, could not even find sanded pastel paper (so I am making my very own 😀 )

I have always wondered, what exactly are illustration boards? And, how different will the smooth side of stiff cartridge paper be? I doubt I’m able to find ilustration boards in India, could not even find sanded pastel paper (so I am making my very own 😀 )
Illustration boards are usually light cards having a treated surface, made to accept ink and other alike media. They’ve already different surfaces, but they are designed difficult to take a little bit of treatment from commercial artists. The top might be machine treated – ie. pressed flat under ruthless as well as heat, or can be a layer of the compound, ie, a mixture of fine clay along with other substances to provide a difficult shiny surface.

They’re fun to operate on, particularly the super-shiny ones, which make inks look extra-glossy, but they’re a lot more costly than your average drawing papers for that casual sketcher.

Rotrings should work nicely on illustration boards, with one small proviso I have observed: Some boards having a layered surface might have the top really scratched an excessive amount of through the fine tip from the smaller sized gauge Rotrings, and also the detritus may block the end. All it requires is really a shake along with a wipe, but bear that in your mind. Also, cheaper ” floating ” fibrous papers may release fibers which do exactly the same factor, so be careful with cheap cartridge paper. I believe the graceful side of stiff cartridge is a bit an excessive amount of like blotting paper, but give it a try 😀

Yes, absolutely. Illustration boards play for the Rotring’s strengths, I believe.

I guess Bristol Paper (Strathmore brand) is exactly what I meant, sorry basically did not make that obvious. I have not used at all illustration board.

I guess Bristol Paper (Strathmore brand) is exactly what I meant, sorry basically did not make that obvious. I have not used at all illustration board.
Wikipedia lists Bristol Boards and Bristol Papers as interchangeable terms, so we are both right 😀

There are a number of weights, so some should be more “paper – like”, surely!

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